Pateira

In 1958, for the first and only time, the voice, the stage presence and art of Maria Callas graced the most historic of Portuguese opera houses: Lisbon's Teatro Nacional de São Carlos.  Despite playing Violetta in only two performances (the 27th and 30th of March), Maria Callas' performance earned a place in operatic history.  Even today, when the Lisbon Traviata is mentioned, one automatically thinks of Callas. 

As usual, the Portuguese national public radio station, Emissora Nacional de Radiodifusão -- nowadays called Rádio Difusão Portuguesa or RDP -- broadcast live the opening night performance, where Callas was joined by Alfredo Kraus as Alfredo, Mario Sereni as Giorgio Germont, with Franco Ghione conducting the Orquestra Sinfónica Nacional, Portugal's National Symphony Orchestra.  The occasion marked Maria Callas' debut in Portugal, an important event the Emissora Nacional lost no time in archiving the original iron oxide tapes.  In December 2000, the first CD edition of the Lisbon Traviata from its original source tape was issued, with no commercial intentions.  This RDP edition was merely a courtesy issue, and its copies could not be found either in record shops or similar commercial establishments.  In less than a month, the 2000 copies sold out quickly, from a reception desk inside RDP's main building in Lisbon!  

The Teatro Nacional de São Carlos, is the opera house of Lisbon. It was opened on July 30, 1793 by Queen Maria I as a replacement for the Tejo Opera House, which was destroyed in the 1755 Lisbon earthquake. The theatre is located in the historical center of Lisbon, near the Chiado district.

Pastel de Nata or Pastel de Belém  is a small cream tart found throughout Portugal's pastry shops or cafés. It is believed that it was created before the 18th century by Catholic Sisters at the Jerónimos Monastery (Mosteiro dos Jerónimos) of Belém, in Lisbon.

Casa Pastéis de Belém in Lisbon was the first place outside the convent selling this creamy dessert, and there they're called Pastéis de Belém, after the name of this area. Since 1837, locals have come here to get them warm out of the oven and sprinkle with the cinnamon and powdered sugar.

The Portuguese historian João Medina refers to Pastel de Natal as one of Portuguese trademarks in his book "Portuguesismos".  But that is not the reason why I visit so often the Casa Pastéis de Belém... 

Restaurant Valle Flor, Lisbon

Taste Lisbon 2006 (Lisboa à Prova 2006) is the typical contest designed to select the "best place to eat in town" (Food, Decor, Service and Cost).   Organized by the Lisbon City Hall, not all the Lisbon restaurants participated, only 250 in order to select 30.  So, definitely these restaurants are not the "only bests" but, at least, the first nine, awarded with the "3 forks" prize, are definitely for premium food seekers.   

So, if you come to Lisbon and need a top restaurant, here are nine well rated by name, food style ( author, international, traditional) and average meal price.    

And the "3 forks" award goes to :

ELEVEN - Parque Eduardo VII - an author cuisine holding one Michelin star, average price: € 60

•  Modern decoration, with magnificent view over Lisbon's main park Eduardo VII, Mediterranean cuisine

GALERIA GEMELLI - Rua S.Bento - an author (chef Augusto Gemelli) , average price: € 40

• One of the best restaurants of Italian food, since 1999.

LUCA - Santa Marta - international cuisine, average price: € 25

• Urban-industrial decor, Italian but also international, chef Massa Hiro

NA ORDEM - Ordem dos Médicos - an author (chef Luís Suspiro) , average price: € 30

• Located on the Portuguese Medical Association headquarters, traditional recipes are served in large plates

O POLEIRO - Entrecampos - traditional, average price: € 35

• Cosy decor of an old deli, with traditional cuisine from the North and Alentejo 

O TERREIRO DO PAÇO - Lisboa Welcome Center - an author (chef Vítor Sobral) , average price: € 40

• Located on an old post warehouse with 3 decors, traditional portuguese cuisine

PRAGMA - Casino Lisboa - an author (chef Fausto Luigi Airoldi) , average price: € 70

• Modern decor, international and gourmet type

VALLE FLOR - Pestana Palace Hotel - an author (chef Aimé Barroyer) , average price: € 70

• Luxury decor, the chef re-invents with typical portuguese ingredients

VARANDA - Hotel Ritz - an author (chef Sebastien Grospellier) , average price: € 50

• Luxury decor, with Lisbon panoramic view, portuguese and international

Don't forget reservations and Buon Apetit!

Located in Northeast Portugal, within the Douro River basin, surrounded by craggy mountains that give it very particular soil and climateric characteristics, this region spreads over a total area of approximately 250 000 hectares.

Its most famous product is the Port Wine, a fortified wine, as defined in EU legislation. It is produced under very specific conditions resulting from natural and human factors. The winemaking procedures, based on traditional methods, include stopping the fermentation of the must by adding grape brandy (beneficio), making up lots of wine and ageing the wine.

250 years ago, the great Douro farmers, desirous of protecting their interests, petitioned the government of the future Marquis of Pombal to create the Companhia Geral dos Vinhos do Alto Douro. This new institution, established by Royal Charter on 10 September 1756, was directed at ensuring the quality of the product, avoiding fraud, balancing production and trade, and stabilising prices. The first "demarcation of the mountains" was implemented. The borders of the winemaking region were delimited by 335 stone markers bearing the Feitoria designation which indicated the best quality wine, the only one that could be exported to England, commonly known as fine wine. The concept of a register of vines was defined.

The region where Porto wine is produced, was classified by UNESCO - 14/12/2000 - as World Patrimony of the Humanity, and it is one of the most beautiful landscapes of the world, where vineyards are planted in terraces overcoming the terrains inclination.

It goes without saying that the Region of the Douro worths not a visit, but a pilgrimage.

I must confess that I appreciate Blues, Jazz, Rock and even Rap and Hip Hop. But, now and then, one gets tired of buying marketing instead of good music. Then, the need for good and unique sound becomes urgent. Sometimes this type of music is called World Music. To me, is just good or bad music.

This history started back in 1985 when two Portuguese guys, Pedro Ayres de Magalhães and Rodrigo Leão – rock musicians - decided to form a band to play a sound based on acoustic guitar and much feeling. That was the starting point of Madredeus.

One day, they heard a very young girl singing fado at the typical Bairro Alto quarter in Lisbon. That girl, named Teresa Salgueiro, gave the perfect voice for the group’s melodies and lyrics.

And in 1987 at the Xabregas Convent Church - the primitive name of this convent was “Convento da Madre de Deus” - they recorded their first album called “Os Dias da Madredeus”. It was something unique and universal. Serene, ethereal songs, carrying a whispering, almost secret “portugueseness” sound.

It is worthwhile to hear Madredeus, or solo albums by Teresa Salgueiro or Rodrigo Leão.

Just plain, good music!

The "Palácio da Brejoeira" is located in the parish of Pinheiros, 6 kilometres from Monção, north of Portugal.   It is a good example of the aristocratic houses in Portugal, surrounded by green woods and enchanting gardens with magnolias and camellias.  Built in 1834, originally, it was the centre of a vast estate.  Today the large area is used to cultivate grapes for the Alvarinho wine. It is one of the most prestigious of the Portuguese green wines of the region. It also produces an "aguardente bagaceira" (brandy).  Permission by previous arrangement is needed to visit this magnificent manor house. 

So, the Alvarinho (a.k.a. Albariño in the area of Rias Baixas, Galicia, Spain) is a white wine grape variety, used to create a serious varietal wine with pleasant citrus fruit aroma, widely grown in regions of N.W. Spain and also in northern Portugal. Thought by some to be a Riesling clone originating from the Alsace region of France.

“Palácio da Brejoeira” is highly prized (sorry, also expensive and rare) as the best green Portuguese wine.  Really a “Premium Portugal Must”.

Sometimes, in a depreciative way, Portugal, Spain, Italy and Greece are called the European Olive Belt.  Well I do not find what mother-earth gives us depreciative at all. Quite the contrary!

The Portuguese olive oil is one of the best in the world.  Here are some important definitions:

Extra Virgin olive oil - It has an absolutely impeccable taste and aroma; fruity; the acidity, expressed in oleic acid, may not exceed 1%. Extra Virgin olive oil accounts for less than 10% of the Portuguese production.
Virgin olive oil - Perfect flavor and odor, maximum acidity (oleic acid) of 2g/100g - 2%.
Ordinary Virgin olive oil - Good flavor and odor, maximum acidity (oleic acid) of 3.3g/100g - 3.3%.
Lampante Virgin olive oil - Virgin olive oil with an acidity of more than 3.3%. Not fit for direct consumption.
Olive Oil - A low cost blend of refined and virgin oil. Maximum acidity (oleic acid) of 1.5g/100g - 1.5%. The cheap refined oil is mixed with a flavorful virgin oil.
Refined Olive oil or Pure olive oil  - This is obtained by refining virgin olive oils which have a high acidity level and/or organoleptic defects which are eliminated after refining.

In Portugal you can find "Olive Oil with Protected Origin Denomination"  (DOP).   The "DOP Olive Oils" like top wines, are originated in one specific geographical area, with unique soils and climat and made of special varieties of olives.   Portugal has five "DOP" areas for producing Olive Oil: 

• 
  "Moura", small area in Alentejo.
  "Trás-os-Montes" from North East of Portugal.
  "Beira Interior" from Center of Portugal. 
  "North Alentejo" and
  "Ribatejo". near Lisbon area. 
  

My advice to you would be a virtual visit to "Herdade do Esporão" or, better, a real tour to the state in the heart of Alentejo region, 180 Km south of Lisbon, in Reguengos de Monsaraz. With the bonus of tasting excellent wines... 

"Limited and not conclusive scientific evidence suggests that eating about two tablespoons (23 grams) of olive oil daily may reduce the risk of coronary heart disease due to the monounsaturated fat in olive oil. To achieve this possible benefit, olive oil is to replace a similar amount of saturated fat and not increase the total number of calories you eat in a day."

decision announced in November 1, 2004 by the American Food and Drug Administration.

May I invite you for a couple of golf rounds?

Yeah, I know it sounds crazy - for some of you - to cross the Atlantic just to play golf in Portugal.  If my invitation were to Saint Andrews Course in Scotland...that's another pair of shoes!

Ok, but don't you go on business trip to Europe - Paris, Frankfurt, Amsterdam, Brussels, London, Zurich, etc. - from time to time?  Don't you spend 2, 3, 4 business days there? Don't you take advantage of a long weekend to visit Crazy Horse, Lido, seeing a Shakespeare play, visiting a museum, playing some golf, perhaps?  Everybody does...

Here is the deal:  take a plane to Lisbon - no problem, twice, 3, 4 times a day connections from every mayor European city -.  Thirty minutes after landing (except on rush hours) you are in heaven!   Same afternoon, next morning you can play on a beautiful and challenging course, 5 star resort.

You can lunch or dine by the sea the best seafood available in Europe, looking at the Atlantic ocean; you can visit the best European casino (Monte Carlo is good for your daddy), you can see a Vegas show, you can hear and feel "Fado".

The golf course is Penha Longa, the area is Sintra and surroundings:  Estoril and Cascais.  Just the very best!

Any time of the year (no snow). total security, affordable prices - you know what I mean - relax, calm, superb landscape, top-rated services.

What I just described - except for the casino, I guess - was the last weekend spent by President Clinton in Portugal.  I know that some of his tastes are questionable, but he surely knows how to enjoy life. 

Do you need better endorsement?

A simple request of a bottle of wine could be day-to-day business, boredom, a waist of time, headache or extasy!

But extasy comes either with pure luck or great and sophisticated knowledge. 

If you want to taste our wine, maybe I could be your wine expert.

As you guessed, I do not intend to talk about wine - ocasionally, perhaps - but about this small country:  Portugal.

I am an insider and I can trade - for free, and legally - some inside information.

Best Regards,

Luís Antunes